|
|
Post by Karnak on Nov 12, 2014 1:05:40 GMT -6
I THINK I know the answer but here goes.
Do you cut off those 'scalloped' pieces of frame pocket that are under the stock upper a arms before you weld in the jack bolt plate? I would think you would want that out of these simply to keep those pieces from interfering with the movement of the spring.
I'm just starting to work on replacing the stock upper control arms with fabricated mount and new a-arms. I probably should buy a caster/camber gauge to make things easier although doing it the old fashioned way with an angle finder, a square and maybe a plumb bob would work OK, too.
Any recommendations on a-arm length on this Camaro stub? All the a-arms i have are too long from the right side so I'll shorten them…. maybe 8.5-9.0 on the RF. I think I have 10.5" and 11.0" in stock.
Your thoughts?
|
|
|
|
Post by confused on Nov 12, 2014 6:59:34 GMT -6
I install buckets on all the cars I build. So, I cut out everything that is in the way. Then plate the bottom of the frame to strengthen it and close it up
I don't use a caster/camber gauge. Just use a good angle finder
|
|
|
|
Post by Karnak on Nov 12, 2014 10:06:31 GMT -6
I don't think I have room for a bucket without extensive cutting on the spring pocket and the front X-member. Plus I need shock clearance so I'd have to clearance the bucket, too. I'm betting that a bucket would add some strength to the frame.
I'll take another look at this today.
|
|
|
|
Post by confused on Nov 12, 2014 12:31:04 GMT -6
The outside is clearanced for the shock. Does add strength to the frame.
|
|
|
|
Post by Karnak on Nov 12, 2014 22:37:15 GMT -6
Well I fooled around with my super stock chassis a little tonite (much to the dismay of my bride). First I got a mono-leaf spring out of my stash and mocked it up. Then I measured the wheelbase to be sure it's 108"… it is. I'd really sooner have it @ 110" or even 112" to get more rear static weight. But that probably won't happen… I'm keeping this deal very simple. I have the chassis mounted on an old assembly table I bought from a body man friend of mine years ago. It's not as good aa a frame table but it works. Luckily I have a good supply of large C-clamps to keep the thing firmly planted on the table. I did have to use my jib crane to lift this up and reposition it on the table. When I was cleaning the shop my son and wife made the decision to put the thing on that table while it was sitting outside… tonite I just lifted it up to put some blocks between the table and frame to give me a little more room to work. But it was a bit of a challenge doing it alone but it's OK now. The jib crane was the best $50.00 tool I ever bought! |
|
|
|
Post by Karnak on Nov 12, 2014 22:38:10 GMT -6
|
|
|
|
Post by Karnak on Nov 12, 2014 22:42:06 GMT -6
|
|
|
|
Post by racer96m on Nov 13, 2014 12:13:23 GMT -6
 I remove those tabs on the bottom, they just limit your adjusting height. This is a pic of my RF, I moved the shock for clearance because of the shortened upper and increased camber gain. Dave |
|
|
|
Post by confused on Nov 13, 2014 14:06:45 GMT -6
^^^^ that is trick!!!!
|
|
|
|
Post by confused on Nov 13, 2014 18:21:08 GMT -6
Something I was thinking about today, if legal, move the weight jack towards the center of the frame. It matters if you get a lot of roll onto the RF.I do it on the Mods I build, even with IMCA's frame rules.  I'm kinda working in the dark on this front end. Pretty new to this Chevy stuff. With this being a leaf car do I want all that roll like a bar car has? I'm thinking my spring rates will be in the area of 8-900 RF 7-800 LF. That's what two different shops recommended. This will be a 2900# car (I hope)… 2700# minimum this year… that may be up'ed in 2015 back to 2800# where it was for years. |
|
|
|
Post by Karnak on Nov 13, 2014 18:42:52 GMT -6
Cool front end Dave… what's the reason for the shock mounted like we used to do? Is that an Elite chassis?
|
|
|
|
Post by confused on Nov 13, 2014 19:25:28 GMT -6
With a ton of camber gain on the RF, the upper will kill a shock.
|
|
|
|
Post by Karnak on Nov 13, 2014 20:12:05 GMT -6
With a ton of camber gain on the RF, the upper will kill a shock. Got it… I was looking thru my spares tonite and got good and bad news. Bad… I'm missing two right lower a arms. Good… I found an 840# spring for the RF and a 700# for the left. Might be a good starting point. |
|
|
|
Post by confused on Nov 13, 2014 20:20:13 GMT -6
It's a starting point. What does the car have to weigh? I run a 500 and 550 in the front of my Mod but it only weighs 2500 with me in it.
|
|
|
|
Post by racer96m on Nov 14, 2014 9:43:27 GMT -6
Something I was thinking about today, if legal, move the weight jack towards the center of the frame. It matters if you get a lot of roll onto the RF.I do it on the Mods I build, even with IMCA's frame rules. I'm kinda working in the dark on this front end. Pretty new to this Chevy stuff. With this being a leaf car do I want all that roll like a bar car has? I'm thinking my spring rates will be in the area of 8-900 RF 7-800 LF. That's what two different shops recommended. This will be a 2900# car (I hope)… 2700# minimum this year… that may be up'ed in 2015 back to 2800# where it was for years. When I install weight jack bolts, I always install the lower arm and move it to 1" above ride height, (on Right side) 1" lower on left, then wind the jack bolt down until it points to the center of the spring pocket, and weld it in. I dont like the springs being side loaded, just makes setups harder to figure out. Leaf springs hummm, you gona run the "Fast Boys" setup? Dave |
|
|
|
Post by racer96m on Nov 14, 2014 9:51:14 GMT -6
Cool front end Dave… what's the reason for the shock mounted like we used to do? Is that an Elite chassis? Yes, this is a picture from my 2013 ELITE Chassis, the forward shock mount was a prototype and clamped onto the bar. You can still see the original shock mount welded to the chassis. My new 2015 ELITE has been built with the forward shock mount welded to the chassis and no standard center shock mount on the Right side. Dave |
|
|
|
Post by confused on Nov 14, 2014 12:19:04 GMT -6
Dave, I did something similar with my car when I did the jack bolts. Rather than one inch, I went to full compression. The amount of angle change in the spring is amazing when you track it like that. My rf spring plate is mounted with almost 20 degrees of angle in it. Left is about 12.
|
|
|
|
Post by Karnak on Nov 14, 2014 14:06:17 GMT -6
Today the weight minimum is 2700# which was lowered from 2800# that was the standard for years. I believe many drivers have a hard time making that 2700# deal without building a new moly car. Today WISSOTA is considering new super stock rules at the annual meetings… who knows what they will come up with.
Dave… the Fast Boys isn't legal. Coil springs on trailing arms or straight leafs only. Coil cars need to run a long panhard bar behind the rear… no j-bars. They run a 3-link set-up with the top bar mounted off to the right of the diff and i think it can't be more than 16" long and 8" above the axle tube...IIRC. It's a pretty unique set-up.
I have an idea about using a leaf spring with a soft biscuit puck between two leaves in front of the axle tube… kind of dampner of sorts. Might allow some wrap-up for traction but not too much… came to me in a bad dream. I may build one just to see if it makes sense… I'm sure WISSOTA would frown on it. They are not big on creativity.
|
|
