2015 A Mod Build.

You're right! I do like to see what others do. Race cars are neat.

Good stuff. I look forward to seeing the rest of your build.

I'll share a few Fab tips that might help someone. I'm old school, and cheap, so I can make a tool to do what I want, I do. So here is an easy tool to make flanged holes in your sheetmetal that cost almost nothing. The tool is simple, I used some scrap Phenolic material I had from making carb spacers, but you can use any hard wood. I make them in all different sizes but this one I used a 1 3/4" hole saw to cut the hole and then beveled it with a 45 deg router bit. The plug piece needs to be 1/2" bigger so I used a 2 1/4 hole saw to cut that and beveled the bottom of the plug with the 45 deg router bit. I put the cut out plug from the 1 3/4 hole on the bottom of that. So you just cut a 1 3/4 hole in your sheetmetal, put the bottom beveled piece on one side and drop the beveled plug in from the other side and draw them together with the threw bolt until you cant tighten it any more, and there it is a perfectly flanged hole.

Working on the decking. I thought I would show the Hartwell latches I use for the rear fuel cell access panel. I have used these latches on every car for the last 20yrs. I work for the Airlines and these latches are used on commercial jets to latch access panels. Nascar now uses them for there side windows on the speedway cars for quick access for the safety crews.

I have a few questions. I have been thinking about converting to angle aluminum for the deck bracing. Does this hold up well? How about the back rail (deck tree?)? Do you do aluminum on that or something else? How is the back one best to mount?

I have used 1x1 tubing for the back T bar and also 1x1 Alum Angle. I always make the T bar uprights from 1x1 tubing and then use alum angle or square tubing. Last car was alum angle and this car is square tube. The best way I have found to do the T bar is have the last 16 inches or so of the rear bar bolt on the right side. So set up your bar, then cut it on the right side and I use a 1in alum strap 1/8th thick, 5 or 6 in long across the back to bolt the 16in piece to the main T bar. When you smack the wall, that piece will just fold back, bending at the alum splice piece and wont push the whole deck over to the left. As for alum angle on the rear decking from mid bar to rear t bar. I dont use any, it just makes the deck harder to fix when you smack the wall.

Dave

That's a pretty good compromise between the strength of steel and the flex of aluminum. Good tip!

A Few Pics of the Dash and wiring.

   As I'm redoing my decking this offseason your fab tips are more than helpful. Pictures show a lot of attention to detail.      Thanks =#01H   

Well, Its almost time to race and I'm just about done! The Engine is all ready and I'll be putting it in next week!

I hem all the openings and then use the "Spoiler Die" on my Mittler Brothers bead roller for the flare. It makes a nice strong wheel well opening. The MB bead roller is the only nice tool I use. My brake is home made angle iron, I use a hand pneumatic shear from harbor freight and flatten long hem'ed edges with a harbor freight English wheel.

Dave

I want to know about that spindle… Pinto with ?

Here is a few pics of the brake and throttle pedals, brake bias adjuster, seat mount, and eng. Almost done, sick of working on this thing!lol